Willy Wonka Chocolate Factory for Grown-Ups

Ask nearly any tourist on their way back from Dublin if they visited the Guinness Brewery and 9 times out of 10 they certainly did. Well I'm here to tell you, there's a much better brewery right here in London! I know what your thinking "I love Guinness, it's one of the best beers around!" well I'm not here to argue about the actual beer, but if you're going to spend 10 euro on a brewery tour, make sure your actually visiting a BREWERY and not some unsightly beer "museum".

This afternoon I hopped the district line over to Turham Green Station and took a tour of the Fuller's brewery. I had been planning to visit the brewery for awhile and what better time than right after final exams.

My main objective for the tour was to see an actual working brewery and learn about the delicicies inherent to producing an ale as opposed to the more commonplace lager. My tour started off in a proper "english" pub and we headed off to the original storage room to pick up some safety vests. Throughout the tour we had to make way for employees as they picked up massive bags of hops, managed the malt mills and monitered the "coppers". Even though the brewery started in 1845, the process was an interesting mix of new age automation and old-school elbow grease. Not much has changed in the actual process since 1845, and after the tasting the product, I don't see any need for modification.

[Modern Day copper still (still referred to as copper, even though technically stainless steal)]

The tour opened my eyes to the beverage with a reputation that has suffered due to poor handling and a global preference for lager. Many people believe English ale is flat, warm and tasteless... the truth of the matter is the pubs are to blame for this misconception. The first time I tried an ale I wanted my 2.50 back. "Real Ale" is 100% natural and by definition has no preservatives. The beer has a limited shelf life, and requires delicate handling procedures. If pubs and bars ignore those rules, they end up dispensing expired, rank, and flavorless liquid that has given the English beer world such a poor reputation. As for the temperature, turns out ale is not supposed to be served room temperature, or as cold as a lager but somewhere inbetween. This generally means if you plan on drinking real/cask conditioned ale the only proper way to do it is at a pub. Also for the stateside readers, if you encounter Fuller's you better believe it's pasteurized and thus technically not "real ale".

[Kegs on their way to the pubs]

So give ale a chance, and if you get the chance pay a visit to the Fuller's brewery, it will not dissapoint!

~RSL

Marmite, eww

People often label British food as worse than it actually is. Something I've learned is that this is not entirely true at all. London is an absolutely massive city that offers up cuisine from everywhere around the world and finding a decent meal is really not all that difficult especially if your living in the city.

So here are just a few of my favorite places to eat in the U.K. capital just in case you ever find yourself over here.

• Hummus Bros - A rather different concept, this small cafe offers meals based entirely on hummus spread. This isn't your cold grocery aisle pasty peas hummus, this place offers a warm plate of well-seasoned hummus, olive oil, pita and your choice of chicken, beef or pork to top it off. It's simple, filling and making me way to hungry just thinking about it.
• The Hawksmoor - Feeling a little spendy? Want to try London's juiciest steaks and self-proclaimed "best chips (french fries)?" Then the Hawksmoor is for you. I've only been here once, but this posh but quaint steakhouse delivers piping hot cuts of meat, generous salads and some of the oddest desserts I've ever encountered.
• Cafe Rouge - This is a French chain of restarants all over London. A bit pricey, but a good selection of fish and meats in generous portions an wonderful side dishes.
• Brick Lane - This is not a restarant, rather a street filled with Indian restarants that I can't say differ that much from eachother. So gather some friends, head down the street, negotiate a dinner deal with the doorman and enjoy. Did you know Chicken Tikka Masala is widely thought of as Britian's national dish??
• Tortilla - So you miss chipotle? Go to Tortilla.
• The Greenwich Union - Hands down my favorite pub. They brew their own beer, and serve a delicious assortment of gastropub dishes. Try the salmon, it's out of this world.
• 24 Hour Beigal Bake - On Brick Lane, this 24/7 bagel shop serves up some some wonderful sandwiches and the best corn beef in London (referred to as "salt beef"). Make sure you go to the one with the white sign, it's the original beigal bake the yellow beigal bake is a knock-off. Wash it all down right nextdoor at Brick Lane Coffee. They get all their wonderful coffee roasts from Papua New Guinea.

One last thing, if your looking for something more... traditional, do not I repeat DO NOT try Marmite (also known as vegemite). It's disgusting. Stay away from this tar like substance.

~RSL

21 in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Just as any birthday, turning 21 years old begs the question, "so how did you celebrate?" My celebration was anything but your average bar night.

My last day in Dubrovnik our tour group took an island hopping tour. This all day trip included 3 islands, on-board music and oh yeah... all you can drink wine all for 150 Kune ($28 USD). The small boat held our group of 12 students from the Americas, Europe, Africa, Asia and 2 British group leaders (I will explain why I was part of this group in a later entry). Dubrovnik is settled along the Adriatic coast and the surrounding area is simply gorgeous.

The day started with a bit of vino on the boat, stopping at the islands to chill out on the beach or check out the gift shops. At the last island my group surprised me with "The Super Waffle"


This waffle was not your average ego, it was a lush, rich piece of deliciousness topped off with cherry ice cream, whip cream, pears and strawberry syrup. Out of this world.

Following a toast to yours truly, we headed back to the boat for the last leg of our journey. Our group was sharing the boat with a group of 60-65 year old Bulgarians and a couple of Irish people. I'm not sure what came over everyone, but the wine started to get passed around and the music cranked louder. After 15 min my group leader yelled out "Let the birthday boy drive the boat" I didn't think it was possible for my face to get any redder after all the wine I had enjoyed but somehow that did it. Before I knew it I was piloting the vessel with the supervision of our half drunk, sketchy looking captain (don't worry I could have rowed faster than this boat). So I've got everything under control at the wheel, when the other crew member hands me a plastic cup and pours me half a glass of Grappa . For those who've never had the opportunity to enjoy Grappa, it smells like windex, tastes like windex... and its 86 proof, it should come with a Mr. Yuck sticker on it. Before I manage to take down the toxic fluid, the captain stops me and asks "how old I you?" I respond "21"; "oh that's no good (takes my cup and fills it to the top)." So everyone on the boat starts in with the birthday song, I somehow manage to take down the grappa and not crash the boat in the process.


Soon afterward, one of the Bulgarians (who had his fair share of grappa) started dancing. Before long the whole boat was on their feet, dancing to "It's Raining Men"

What a day!

[This Bulgarian could groove.]

Special thanks to everyone who made this day so well... unique!

~RSL

Miss me?

Hello everyone,

I know it's been awhile since my last post. What I've learned about blogging is that once you stop for awhile it's tough to get back on track and you start to think about all the blogging you'll have to do in order to make-up for it. So I'll strike a deal, I've done a lot of traveling and have a range of fun stories I wish to share with everyone.

From here on out I pledge to write at least one thing a day, nothing will be necessarily chronological and I'm not guaranteeing it will even be worth reading. I've fallen way behind in this whole thing, so hold me to my word and expect the entries to come reeling in soon.

Also I will be returning May 29th at 5:30 to MSP, I know my arrival will cause quite a stir in Minneapolis.

You'll be hearing from me soon.

~RSL

The Parents Invade London

G-D save the Queen cause the dynamic duo that is Mark and Susan have arrived. I would normally have saved this post till after they left, but I don't feel like studying, I'm all caught up on Hulu and I've got nothing better to do. Enjoy the pictures and the story at the bottom.

[At the Meantime Union Pub in Greenwich (Mom ordered the BEST salmon)]


[Me and Mom touring the Tower of London]


[Tea Time in the Trafalger Tavern]




[The Royal Observatory in Greenwich]



[IT'S A LUIGI! (super nintendo reference) ]


The BRITISH Sense of Humor
I'm scoping out the Orangrie at Kensigton palace to see if it's a good place to have afternoon tea. There's a line to get in and a well dressed host walks out to an American family at the front of the line and asks "How many today?" The father replies "five please" Host frowns ever so slightly, looks down at his table list on the podium for a moment and looks back at the family while his glasses are perched ever so snobbingly at the tip of his nose and says in a cold tone "now, would that be a high five or a low five?" The father looks confused and nervous as he has no idea how to reply and genuinly thinks if he doesn't answer the question correctly he won't get a table. After a 5 second awkward pause, the man's 10 year old daughter sprouts a grin, raises her arm and eagerly says "HIGH FIVE!" The host and the girl slap hands and he then proceeds to seat the family. Perfect example of the British sense of humor!

Vroom Vroom Italia

Dear Italy,

I'm not sure your aware of this, but you are crazy. I've traveled to many places in the funny ole' world and you should know that you just not like the rest. Sure you have some similarities to other countries, like gravity, a sun that rises in the east, and bums begging for change to supplement their alcoholism but it just about ends there. My experience this past weekend was out of the ordinary. The people that dwell in your borders live life to a different tune. I think Zander put it best when he asked me if I thought Italians ever get tired of being Italian. It must take a lot of energy to adhere to the quirky behaviors and dress codes that make someone Italian. Your bus drivers roll through town chatting on their cell phones dressed like they're ready to head to a cocktail lounge, hotel receptionists give you change right out of their own wallets, and if you accidentally block an intersection so another car can't quite get through you get an ear full from not just one person in the opposing car but all three of them have something different to say. Three days is about all I can handle of Italy, since unlike your residents... I do get quite tired of being Italian.

So anyway thanks for the great weekend, and I hope to see you again sometime.

Yours Truly,
Ross Leder.

Every now and then life surprises you with something unforgettable. Sometimes it's that crazy night out on the town, a teacher that inspires you beyond your expectations, or even a word of profound advice from your folks that really sticks with you. My trip to Italy was one of those moments in time I will always look back at as a “wow” experience. It was one of those times when everything that could have gone wrong DIDN'T, and any expectation you had was so greatly exceeded you forgot you ever had it. It was one of those moments where everything just worked. From leaving my flat in East London (without forgetting ANYTHING) to leaving the Ciampino airport, the journey was pure enjoyment. Surrounded by quality people, an outstanding travel itinerary , comfortable accommodation, an aggressive new travel challenge and not to mention a “cool it” I almost wish the trip didn't end. Thank you to everyone who took part of the trip, it was a gas. So if you at all care about my trip, then by all means, read on...

Alexander Abrams, Michael Kaplan and I rented a car in Milan and journeyed South to Florence. On the way we stopped off in a lakeside town to crab a bite. Taking a car through this area is like the scene in the original Blues Brothers where they drive the car through a shopping mall. I actually took the car over a moat bridge and through a castle entrance. My first Italian meal was splendid, cheese and mushroom stuffed ravioli with a side of insalata mista. From there we made our way down to Florence, along the way I began to understand the principles of Italian drivers.

1. There are no driving rules, only suggestions

2. The speed limit is at least double whatever the sign says.

3. ALWAYS flash your brights before passing someone

4. NEVER trust any other car, just assume everyone else has no idea what they're doing on the road.

5. Parking is one big game of who can find the weirdest spot to put their car and “no parking” signs are almost always disregarded.

6. Know how to brake with your engine on the down slopes, otherwise you could burn out your brakes.
   

7. If you ever need to yell at a another car from your window, make sure everyone in your car rolls down their window and participates.

Many people told us we were crazy for renting a car and driving with all those crazy Italians. Now I completely understand why, and would agree most Americans probably shouldn't do this, but if you've got the right people with you to navigate, and you're confident driving a stick then by all means do it. Driving through Italy is one of the best ways to see the country.

The best part of Florence would have to be seeing Andy Stein, I mean I lived with the guy for 2.5 years in college so it was good to see how he was holding up. In case your wondering, he was looking slick in a new Italian peacoat and some fancy leather shoes.

[Andy drinking the girliest thing he could find]

[The Gentleman of Apartment 512]

This was my second visit to Florence so I took some time to explore some alternative destinations. The Boboli gardens, the Museum of Science (which is awful), and Michaelangelo's look out. All in all it was a great day, with some exceptional food, great company and of course Gelato.

[According to Andy, best spot for Gelato in Florence, it was mighty tasty!]

[Boboli Gardens overlooking the countryside]

The drive up to Rome was truly fantastic. Michael, Zander and myself headed North to Rome on a small mountainous road stopping at any interesting down we saw along the way. We even ran into a nice Israeli couple at one of the lookout points (what the odds of that??).

A quick wine sampling at the Fattoria Di Montagliari was where we met David Migliorini who schooled us in the basics of Chianti and Italian wine making. This stuff was delicious. A quick lunch at the Villa (winery) and we headed to Siena.

Siena was one of those cities you just know is authentic. One of our oddest experiences occurred in this town. In the areas central park two cars rolled up and eight guys dressed in suits and large blue feathered caps got out and walked around the park singing songs and chatting amongst themselves. Before they returned to their vehicles one of the guys retrieves the largest bottle of vodka I've ever seen and they each take shots out of the “lotion bottle” style nozzle and they drive off. If anyone can explain this please do, it was one of the oddest scenes I've witnessed and the funniest part of it was no one else in the park seemed to care.

[The Dromo in Siena]

My time in Rome was filled with the usual tourist destinations. The whole city is one big museum. I had great time seeing the sights and my only complaint was the touristy restaurants that are difficult to avoid.

[I saw the pope speaking at the Vatican] - - Funny side story, while I'm making my way through the crowd a giant dog tried to jump at me and let out a mean bark. Prob smelled the Jew on me.

[Rome from the Spanish steps at night]

If you every find yourself in Rome, a MUST SEE is the Jewish museum. It's an absolutely stunning temple and the restaurants in the Jewish Ghetto are some the best in the city.

[From left: Glotter, Neilli, Lauren Shoulder and Me]

So that's my post for Italy, as always I try to keep it brief so I'll leave you with the Italy hot list.

• Go to Siena, it's lovely.

• Driving in Italy is a great idea, but bring a GPS and trust no-one on the road (see rules of the road).

• “Snack bars” are everywhere and serve some of the best espresso.

• GELATO, need I say more?

• If your a gin fan, try a negroni. 2 parts gin, 1 part campari, and 1 part sweet vermouth garnished with a pulpy orange and served over ice.

• When in Italy, talk with your hands.

• McDonald's has an amazing sandwich called the Napoli, I know you shouldn't visit Italy for fast food but believe me it's worth it.

• DO NOT try to eat at a restaurant with more than four people if you intend on splitting up the bill.

• Restaurants in Rome will tell you anything to get you in the door, and their food normally sucks.

That's all folks,

Ciao.

~Ross Leder

Rainy Days in London

So it's a rainy Saturday in London town and like the true Minnesotan I am instead of stomping puddles in the street, settling down to a game of monopoly or renting a movie I dialed up Michael Glotter and we set out to London's answer to the American shopping centre.

Opened in October of 2008 Westfield London Shopping Centre is Europe's largest mall. So how does it compare with our beloved Mall of America? It may not be bigger, but it is no doubt better. Sure it only has 255 stores compared to MOA's 520, there's no amusement park or massive food cafeteria. Rather it's what this mall lacks that makes it better, I didn't see a single gothed-out emo girl with her pathetic teenage bad-ass skateboarding boyfriend waltzing through a hot topic to pick out the most ripped up, silver studded rags that cost $80 so they can show everyone else just how unique their personal style is.

Westfield shopping center was one classy establishment, good brands decent prices, some unique food choices (I had a mock Chipotle that wasn't nearly as good as the real thing). I honestly think if Isaac Adler visited this mall he may just renounce his U.S. citizenship.



This mall even featured a special section reserved for the top brands. "The Village" featured Dior, Prada, Gucci, Movado, etc. Naturally I picked out a few Mothers day gifts and birthday presents to bring home (NOT!). Below is a picture of me below 1 of 3 crystal chandeliers in the classier part of the mall.



So if you're in London on a rainy day (which can be quite often) give the Westfield center a shot. It's right across the street from the BBC headquarters which offers free tours so you can make a day of it.

Cheers

~Sir Ross Samuel Leder